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Halcyon Days - All At Sea
Tuesday 1st May 2007
This article was printed in 'All At Sea' May 2007 Edition
“I’m working,” I told myself as I relaxed in the sunshine on the warm, teak deck of the 95-foot Bermudan ketch. “In order to write a report about luxury yacht charter I have to be able to fully appreciate the experience,” the voice inside my brain continues. Last month I went to Weymouth to write about the new Sail Laser centre. I spent an incredibly fun and incredibly painful day sailing a dinghy in temperatures that would not be out of place on Pluto. I was due a bit of pampering. I had been asked to come and experience for myself the elegance and sheer extravagance of Halcyon. She was built in 1929 by an industrialist named Sir Samuel Turner who had something to do with asbestos. She has been restored by Tommi Neilsen - one of Europe’s foremost specialists in the restoration and renovation of classic craft. The work took place at Neilsen’s yard in Gloucester and took almost a year to complete.
The boat is now available for charter in a variety of stunning locations including the Norwegian Fjords, the Isles of Scilly, the Western Isles of Scotland and the beautifully rugged coastline of Pembrokeshire, which is where Charlotte and I went to meet her. We travelled down from London the night before by train. After the French TGV that recently broke records by reaching 357.2 mph, the five hours it took to get there felt slightly ridiculous. I managed to console myself in close proximity to the onboard bar. When we fi nally arrived we were put up at the Canaston Oaks, a five star B & B nestled in the folds of some stunning Pembrokeshire countryside. The owners, Eleanor and David Lewis converted the place from the old stables of Canaston farm, which has been in their family for generations.
They were wonderfully warm and hospitable and Eleanor cooked us an unreasonably tasty breakfast before we set off the meet the yacht. Bellies full, Charlotte and I headed down to Milford Haven to rendezvous with the crew, which is comprised of the captain Robert Hickman, the mate Annette Corder and professional chef Andre Daniels. Also in attendance were an assorted bunch of freeloading journalists. Nearly all of the Pembrokeshire coast is national park and it is absolutely stunning landscape - rugged cliffs, sandy beaches and meandering estuaries that deserve to be explored. Then there are the islands of Grasholm, Ramsey, Skomer and Skokhom that are known for their huge seabird populations, including Manx shearwaters, Guillemots, razorbills, cormorants, kittiwakes, puffins, gulls, storm petrels and shags.
We visited none of these places during the course of our day trip because of the wind, or rather the complete lack of it. Despite putting up almost all 2,275 square feet of sail we made fewer knots than a bone idle boyscout. No one seemed to care though. We were entirely happy to drift along in the sunshine, some reading books, others chatting absentmindedly and all digesting Andre’s gourmet lunch.
Some of the more energetic passengers took it upon themselves to give the crew a hand. Captain Robert, with his laid back demeanour, managed to make them feel as if they were actually being useful as opposed to simply getting in the way, which was more often the case.
Those who decide to charter this £1million vessel can expect a real classic sailing experience. There are very few winches on board. Most lines go through traditional block-and-tackle. There also is a total indulgence of the style of the 1920s. It feels like a kind of aquatic Orient-Express. The saloon even has a wood burning stove. But although the refurbishment has been devotedly true to her original design and construction all the modern facilities are included – you just can’t see them. The ice-maker, central heating, DVD player and the rest of it remain hidden behind teak panelled cupboards. The yacht is also equipped with her original clinker sailing dinghy. A modern RIB for waterskiing and coastal exploration is to be added. I hope it will not spoil the aesthetics or the peacefulness of this beautiful yacht.
Apparently the name ‘Halcyon’ comes from the Ancient Greek for ‘kingfisher.’ It was thought that the kingfisher only visited its nest, far out to sea, on calm, fine days – hence the expression “halcyon days.”
Halcyon is all about lazy days in picturesque bays. She lends herself perfectly to doing nothing . . .which is exactly what I did for my entire time on board. It was the best day’s work I’ve ever done.