Captain's Log
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Sunshine, Showers & Journalists
Wednesday 24th June 2009
Following the departure of our full compliment of guests, once again the crew set to getting on with a changeover to prepare Halcyon for our next charter. We had been thoroughly spoiled by two weeks of consistent fabulous Scottish Weather to compliment the outstanding beauty and needless to say we were due for some changeable conditions.
Our next 2 guests, Geoff & Barbara arrived in Oban and joined us late afternoon on the Saturday. We departed Oban and headed for our favoured close anchorage, Locc Aline, for their first night on board. This particular anchorage has a very narrow entrance for Halcyon but opens up into a lovely Loch which is guaranteed protection for almost any wind direction. It was a little chilly and damp so a fire was laid and a sumptuous meal was prepared.
The following morning was very overcast but we were confident that the sun would try and put its hat on later in the day. We departed Loch Aline and headed up the Sound of Mull to Tobermory. After a light lunch our guests were ribbed ashore for an amble round in the unexpected sunshine. The sun didn’t last long however, and once back on board the drizzle had set in. We departed Tobermory around 4pm and headed towards Ulva where I planned to anchor for the night. Winds were a light 5 knots from the NW, which wasn’t quite enough to put any sails up. I had hoped we could anchor in Gometra Harbour but unfortunately this was full and because I like to ensure we find a secluded anchorage up here we moved on to the picturesque small sheltered Cragaig Bay. It was a fairly tight anchorage for Halcyon so the kedge anchor was laid to stop us swinging and we lay peacefully and quietly for the night.
The following morning brought fairly persistent rain so wet weather gear was donned by all and we weighed anchor and headed for Staffa and Fingals Cave. Despite a bit of a swell from the South the guests were ribbed to the Cave to their sheer delight. It was then on to Iona where a picnic was prepared for Barbara and Geoff to enjoy while exploring Iona and it’s Abbey while Halcyon waited at anchor in the beautiful Sound of Iona. Once guests were back on board we weighed anchor and headed to Loch Tarbert for the night. The wind was still absent and whilst motoring I was contacted by Richard Clapham, one of Tommi Nielsen’s shipwrights who worked on Halcyon’s 2006 restoration. Richard is skipper of a traditional gaff cutter called Eda Frandsen which also cruises the West Coast of Scotland and whom we had briefly seen visiting Fingals Cave that morning. Richard was heading north to the Garvellachs Islands and his conversation with me was cut very short due to a minke whale breaching about 100 metres in front of his boat. That left us all a little green with envy but I’m sure our time for such a sighting will come. We arrived in Loch Tarbert and anchored for the night.
The following morning bought sunshine and 20kts of southeasterly wind and we managed a cracking sail across to the north approaches of the Sound of Islay. It was then sails down and a motor into wind and with tide through the Sound. We had a brief stop for lunch at Jura House but didn’t hang around as this was a little exposed and hence a little rolly. We headed for Gigha for the night and anchored in a lovely secluded bay just big enough for Halcyon.
The following morning was rather grim with rain, about 15 knots of wind and a fair swell from the south. With mizzen and staysail up we headed for Craighouse on the Isle of Jura while guests stayed in the deckhouse where spirits were high despite the conditions. On arrival at Craighouse, Geoff & Barbara were ribbed ashore to savour the delights of the new Bistro called The Antlers, followed by a personal tour of the Jura Whiskey Distillery. This was incredibly kind of the staff here as they were fully booked for both tours on this particular day but they made a special effort to accommodate our guests, which is greatly appreciated. A force 8 gale was forecast and I decided before the weather really started to set in we should make our tracks back towards Oban at least we would be running with the swell which would be much more comfortable for all. Olly and I had reefed the main and we departed around 2.15pm and following a fairly uncomfortable morning we had a fantastic sail in the sunshine up to Poll Nan Corran, in the Sound of Luing for the night.
After a nice night at anchor, well protected from the force 8, it was time to get Halcyon ready for her next leg of the journey. That morning we were visited by a friend of ours from the Isle Of Wight in his twin engined jet boat. He had recognised Halcyon from a distance and came over to say ‘Hi’, he works on the Island of Lunga, which runs survival and activities weeks for kids during the summer months. It was a nice surprise of seeing a familiar face from home to start the day. Unfortunately the weather was once again a little grim so wet weather gear was donned and we departed back on our final leg. The wind was blowing 25 knots from the S with a considerable swell whipped up from the winds the previous evening. It was decided by our guests that we head straight back to Oban where I knew it was would sheltered and we could sit out the strong winds. Once back at anchor in Oban, Annette lit a fire and a hearty lunch with wine was organised which was well deserved by our guests. It had been a fairly rolly trip but still spirits stayed high. This was the end of Geoff & Barbara’s holiday and they departed Halcyon the following morning. Despite our extreme changes in weather they had had a fantastic time and departed feeling refreshed and full of enjoyable Halcyon experiences despite some conditions being slightly unfavourable.
Once again Halcyon had done us proud so it was time to reward her by giving her a deep down clean, do the laundy, get about repairs, shine the brass and have her gleaming once again for our next round of guests who were due to arrive in 2 days time.
On Sunday we received our next group which included Halcyons owner Andrew Armour, our marketing guru, David Green and 3 journalists from different lifestyle magazines. Once all aboard, which was rather late in the evening due to a staggered arrival times, I introduced the new comers to Halcyon and a run down of our planned schedule for the next couple of days. The following morning, we saw some real Scotch mist, wet drizzle and no wind, something one just gets used to up here and which, never dulls the beauty of the Western Isles. We had an early start as we were motoring up to Tobermory for lunch so after a hearty breakfast, wet weather gear was distributed and off we went. We arrived at Tobermory around 12.30pm and Kerri served the famous Cullen Skink, which was very well received given the morning’s conditions. The guests were then ribbed ashore where a tour of the Ledaig Whisky Distillery had been organised together with some samplings. Once back on board we weighed anchor and headed off towards Loch Aline for dinner. Despite only have 4 knots of wind Andrew was determined to show our guests how well Halcyon moves under sail so all 5 sails were hoisted and we ghosted along the Sound of Mull being admired by fellow yachtsmen and shoreside ramblers. We arrived in Loch Aline and were securely anchored by 1900hrs. Sails were all stowed, the chimney was erected and pre dinner drinks, in the form of something bubbly, was enjoyed by Andrew and his guests in the deckhouse. Kerri amazed them all with her Red Onion Tarte Tatin followed by Herb crusted Rack of Lamb. Desert was the ever popular Eton Mess followed by a selection of cheeses and port. There was, as usual, lots of laughter and everyone had enjoyed the day and of course couldn’t stop talking about dinner. High spirits in the saloon continued but the crew excused themselves and settled down for an early night after a long day.
The following morning saw bright blue cloudless skies, a complete contrast to the last couple of days. With 8 knots of southerly breeze all five sails were hoisted and we tacked down the Sound of Mull towards Oban. It was a perfect sailing day. I was aware that a large tanker called ‘Superiority’ was heading down the sound behind us, so I thought I would check in with the Captain to make sure he was happy for us to continue tacking in his path. I contacted him on the VHF and he was happy with my plan but asked me to contact him again once we had gone through our next tack. This of course I did, only to be told that he had trained on board Halcyon during her Warsash years. This never ceases to amaze me, wherever we go we always bump into a cadet who has trained on Halcyon and its always so nice to speak to so many people who have sailed on board in her previous years. Halcyon has so many stories which she keeps to herself so well.
After a wonderful morning sail in the warm sunshine, we anchored just off Seal Island behind Kerrera where a lunch of Ciabatta’s and beers and wine were served. It was then time for David and 2 of our journalists to depart so they were ribbed round to Oban quay to get their respective connections. Amazingly enough, a small pod of Dolphins had arrived in Oban bay and decided to play around Olly, David and Steve on their way in. What perfect timing and a perfect end to a perfect trip. Back on board, I couldn’t believe the weather, it was so warm, in fact it was hot and it really felt at last like summer was here. Andrew decided he should take the clinker for a row with our remaining guest so the clinker the launched and while they rowed to shore for a walk, the crew cooled off with a swim. Well actually Annette and Olly went swimming, I wasn’t quite convinced it was warm enough and Kerri rarely removes her thermals! After an afternoon of diving off the bowsprit, bombs and back somersaults, we headed to find a quiet anchorage for dinner. It was very kind of Andrew to invite the crew to dine with him on this perfect evening. The deck table was erected and dinner was served al fresco. It was an amazing Scottish sunset.
The following morning we were required to get Andrew and his guest back to Oban by 7.30am so they could get on the road to catch a 10.30am flight from Glasgow. We were up at 6am to a glorious morning. Once the kedge and anchor were up we set off for a gentle motor back to Oban. Once back at anchor in our usual spot, Andrew and his guest were ribbed ashore and the crew stood down for a very well deserved break.